Electric Stove Burner Not Working? Coil and Smooth-Top Checks, Step by Step

If one burner on an electric coil stove won’t heat, turn everything off, let it cool, and swap the dead coil into a working burner’s socket. If the coil still doesn’t heat, the element is bad and is usually an inexpensive, plug-in replacement. If it heats in the other socket, the problem is the original socket (receptacle), its wiring or the infinite switch behind the knob. On smooth glass-top (radiant) stoves, elements sit under the glass, so internal repairs are best left to a technician. Always unplug the range or switch off its breaker before touching anything beyond a plug-in coil.

Know your cooktop type

Free checks first

• Check the breaker. Electric ranges use a 240V double breaker. If several burners or the oven also stopped, the breaker may have tripped. See our guide to resetting a tripped breaker, and don’t keep resetting one that trips again.
• Look for a lock or control setting on models with electronic controls; a cooktop lock can disable burners.
• Check the coil is seated. On coil stoves, a coil that isn’t pushed fully into its socket may not heat or may heat intermittently.
• Check the manual for error codes or reset steps. The model number is usually on a label under the cooktop lid, inside the drawer or on the oven frame.

What you need (coil stoves)

• Your manual
• Flashlight
• Replacement coil or socket matching your model (if needed)
• Screwdriver
• Multimeter (optional, for experienced DIYers)

Step-by-step: coil burner diagnosis

1. Turn all knobs off and let everything cool.
2. Pull out the dead coil. Lift the edge opposite the terminals slightly and pull it straight out of the socket.
3. Inspect it. Look for blisters, cracks, bubbles or burned spots on the coil, and for burned or pitted terminal prongs.
4. Swap test. Put the dead coil into a working socket of the same size, and put a working coil into the dead socket. Turn each on briefly.
   • Dead coil now fails in the good socket: replace the coil.
   • Good coil fails in the original socket: the problem is the socket, wiring or infinite switch.
5. Check the socket. With the range unplugged or the breaker off, look for burned, melted or discolored sockets and damaged wires. Burned terminals on the coil often go with a damaged socket; replace both, or the new coil can fail early.
6. Replace parts as needed. Use parts made for your model number. Socket replacement usually means removing a screw and connecting wires; follow the instructions and keep power off.

The infinite switch

The infinite switch is the control behind each knob that cycles power to the burner to set its heat level. When it fails, a burner may not heat at all, may only work on high, or may stay on high regardless of setting. Testing it involves removing the control panel and working near 240-volt wiring. If you’re experienced, do this only with the power off at the breaker and follow the model’s service sheet. Otherwise, it’s a technician’s job.

Smooth-top (radiant) burner not working

• Check the breaker and any lock settings first.
• Look at the hot-surface light. If it comes on but the zone doesn’t glow, the element or a limiter may have failed.
• Element works only on high, or stays on high: often the infinite switch or control.
• Cracked glass: stop using that cooktop immediately and switch off its breaker. A cracked surface can expose live parts and let spills reach them.

Replacing radiant elements or switches means lifting or removing the glass top. Most people are better off calling a qualified appliance technician.

Repair costs (rough ranges)

Plug-in coil elements are among the cheaper appliance parts, and many homeowners replace them themselves. Sockets and infinite switches cost more, and professional labor for any range repair adds a service-call charge. As of 2026, prices vary widely by region, brand and model, so get a written quote, and weigh it against the age of the range.

When to call a pro

• The breaker trips repeatedly, or you see scorch marks, smell burning plastic or see arcing at a socket.
• Smooth-top elements, glass replacement and control board faults.
• Infinite switch replacement if you’re not experienced with 240V appliance wiring.
• The range is under warranty; DIY repairs may void it.

Range-wide electrical problems can call for a licensed electrician rather than an appliance technician, especially if the outlet, cord or circuit is damaged. If your oven is also running hot or cold, see our guide to oven temperature not accurate.

Bottom line

For coil stoves, the swap test tells you in minutes whether to replace the coil or look at the socket and switch. Inspect for burned terminals and replace damaged sockets with the coil. Smooth-top and induction cooktops have fewer DIY options. Whatever the type, kill the power before going beyond a plug-in coil, and call a pro for wiring, glass or control faults.

FAQ

Why does my burner only work on high?

That usually points to a faulty infinite switch. It’s behind the control panel and should be handled with the power off, ideally by a technician.

Are all coil elements interchangeable?

No. Size, wattage and terminal style vary. Buy a replacement listed for your model number.

Is it safe to use the other burners if one is dead?

Usually yes, if there’s no burning smell, sparking or damage. If you see scorched wiring or a cracked glass top, stop using the cooktop.

Why did my new coil stop working quickly?

A damaged socket can burn out a new coil. Replace a burned socket along with the coil.